The estimates for your new roof are sitting on the kitchen table, and they’re full of lines like “ice and water shield,” “drip edge” and “starter strip.” One bid lists all of them. Another lists half. It’s hard to compare prices when you can’t tell which lines matter, and good roof installation in Blue Springs, MO comes down to the layers you’ll never see again once the shingles are on.
You shouldn’t have to take anyone’s word for what’s under your roof. Below is what goes into a new roof, in the order it goes on, and why each piece matters in Kansas City weather.
APC Roofing is GAF Certified, licensed and insured, and has been in business since 2017. Call 913-398-5020 for a free inspection and a written estimate that spells out every layer.
Start with a solid deck
Everything on your roof is nailed into the deck, the plywood or board sheathing over the rafters. On a replacement, the old roof comes off down to that wood so it can be checked. Soft spots around old leaks get cut out and replaced, and loose sheets get refastened. Some older homes have spaced board decking with gaps between the boards, and that usually gets covered with new sheathing so the roof has a continuous surface.
Nails only hold as well as the wood they’re driven into. Shingles fastened into rotted decking work loose early, no matter how good the shingle is.
Ice and water barrier at the eaves and valleys
Ice and water shield is a self-adhering rubberized membrane that sticks straight to the deck and seals around every nail driven through it. In the Kansas City area it belongs along the eaves, where winter ice dams back meltwater up under the shingles, and in the valleys, where two slopes pour their runoff into one channel. It’s also used around chimneys and other spots where leaks tend to start.
When you compare estimates, look for where this membrane goes and how far up from the edge it runs.
Underlayment over the rest of the deck
The rest of the deck gets underlayment. Older roofs used asphalt felt, which tore in wind and wrinkled after rain. Most roofs today get a synthetic underlayment that lies flat and holds up better if weather rolls in before the shingles are on. Each row overlaps the one below it, so water always runs down and off rather than under.
Drip edge on every edge
Drip edge is a bent strip of metal along the eaves and the sloped rake edges. It guides water into the gutter and keeps it off the fascia boards. A lot of older homes were roofed without it, and the trim behind the gutters tells the story: soft wood, peeling paint, sometimes rot. A new roof is the right time to add it and repair the damaged wood behind it.
Starter strip and nailing
The first row along the eave is a starter strip with its own line of adhesive, so the bottom edge of the roof seals down against the wind. Every shingle above it has a marked nailing zone. A nail placed too high misses the layer underneath, and one driven crooked or too deep cuts into the shingle. Either way, wind can get under it. The straight-line gusts that come with Kansas City thunderstorms find those mistakes quickly.
Flashing at walls, chimneys and pipes
Most leaks start where the roof meets something else. Step flashing goes in piece by piece with each row of shingles along a wall, with the siding or trim lapping over the top. A chimney gets an apron across the front, step flashing up the sides and counterflashing set into the mortar joints. Wider chimneys also get a cricket, a small peaked diverter on the uphill side that keeps water and debris from piling up behind the brick. Every plumbing vent gets a new pipe boot.
Old flashing shouldn’t go back on. It’s usually rusted, bent and full of old nail holes. Sealant is a backup, too, not the seal itself. The overlapping metal and shingles do the real work.
Valleys
Valleys carry more water than any other part of the roof. They’re lined with ice and water membrane first, then finished one of two ways. An open valley leaves a strip of metal showing down the middle. A closed-cut valley runs the shingles from one side across and trims the other side in a clean line. Both work well when they’re installed to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Low-slope sections over porches and additions
Plenty of homes around Blue Springs have a porch, sunroom or back addition with a roof that’s nearly flat. Shingles need slope to shed water, so on those sections they tend to leak. The better answer is a membrane made for low slopes, tucked under the shingles above with proper metal at the transition. Our flat roofing page covers those systems.
Shingles and ridge caps
With everything underneath in place, the shingles go on from the bottom up, and the hips and ridge are capped with pieces made to bend over the peak. The adhesive strips on new shingles bond with warmth from the sun, so they grip tighter once the weather warms up.
Many residential projects are finished in a single day, and the site is cleaned up when the work is done.
Choosing what goes on top
For most houses here, that means architectural shingles, with impact-resistant shingles worth asking about if hail is your biggest concern. Our shingle roofing page compares them. Metal is the other common choice, from standing seam to stone-coated steel; see metal roof installation in Blue Springs if you’re leaning that way. Tile is heavy and needs a structure built to carry it, so it isn’t right for every house.
We’ll tell you what we’d recommend for your home and why. You decide.
How it works with APC Roofing
- Book your free inspection. Call 913-398-5020 or request a free online estimate.
- Get a clear, honest assessment and estimate. You’ll see photos of your roof and get a written estimate that lists each layer and material.
- Get your new roof installed and the site cleaned up. The work follows the plan you agreed to, and the property is left clean.
Roof installation questions from Blue Springs homeowners
What’s the difference between roof installation and roof replacement?
Replacement is the whole project: deciding the old roof is done, tearing it off and putting on a new one. Installation is the building part, which is what this page covers. If you’re still deciding whether you need a new roof at all, start with our roof replacement page.
Can new shingles go over my old ones?
Some areas allow one extra layer, but it hides the deck and old flashing, adds weight and gives the new shingles a lumpy base. A tear-off lets the deck be checked and repaired, which is why it’s usually the better choice.
How do I compare roof installation estimates?
Line them up side by side. Look for tear-off versus layover, how rotted decking is handled if it’s found, the type of underlayment, where the ice and water barrier goes, drip edge, new flashing and pipe boots, the shingle line and cleanup. If a line is missing from one bid, ask about it.
Does a re-roof need a permit?
Many cities require one for a full re-roof. Ask any roofer you’re considering whether your job needs a permit and who will pull it. If someone suggests skipping it, keep looking.
Get a roof that’s built right underneath
Shortcuts under the shingles don’t show for a while. Then a windstorm lifts the first row, or an ice dam finds the eave with no membrane, and the repair starts inside the house.
Know what’s going on your roof before work starts. Then you can stop thinking about it, with a sound roof, a dry house and a bill that matches the estimate. Call 913-398-5020 to book your free inspection, or start your estimate online.
