Getting Ready for Roof Installation on a Home in Greater Orlando Metro Area?

APC Roofing tears tired shingles off down to the deck and fits new membrane, metal and vents at every edge and opening.

Call us at 407-270-1129 and we will come out and take measurements.

 

Laying Over the Old Roof: the Trouble Left Underneath

Many local codes permit a single re-cover on a house with one layer, so nothing has to be hauled away. A layover buries the plywood and the flashing under it, and rot or corrosion carries on below.

Shingles laid onto shingles follow every curl underneath, so the adhesive strips bond to an uneven base. A proper reroof clears each slope down to the boards, so soft spots are found and fixed before anything goes on.

The Boards Beneath: Fixing the Base

When the stripping has ended, each sheet of plywood is in plain view. Wood turned soft around old leaks is swapped for new material, while sheathing that has worked free gets renailed.

Houses built with plank decks can have wide gaps between the boards, so a layer of plywood is laid across the top. Nails in decayed lumber lose their grip, so the covering above it lifts in the next gale.

A Barrier on the Wood – Laps and Fasteners

Engineered polymer goes across the field in long runs, so a torn-off piece up top does not mean a soaked ceiling. The felt that used to be standard tore under foot traffic, whereas the newer product keeps its shape for years.

Every run of underlayment overlaps the one below it, top over bottom, and the nail pattern follows the manufacturer's instructions. Which roll sits under the shingles matters, since similar roofs seen from the curb may hide very different layers.

The Rubberized Underlayer: How Far Up the Slope

A sheet with an adhesive back is pressed onto the bare plywood, so it moves with the boards through the seasons. The compound seals around the shank of every roofing nail, and a leak that gets that far goes no further.

At the colder end of our territory, the bottom run extends over the heated space inside the wall, since snowmelt held back by ice creeps up under the laps. On some homes the full surface of the plywood is sealed, so rain that slips under torn shingles stays out of the attic.

Drip Edge: Laid Before or After

An L-shaped profile lines the lower border and the slanted ends, so water drops free instead of curling back under. Across the eave, the underlayment covers the metal's upper leg, whereas the rakes take the opposite order.

Many roofs of a certain age never had edge protection, so the board carrying the gutter is frequently soft. A new roof is the time to add formed metal on every side, with ruined lumber cut out and replaced.

The Lowest Course: When Wind Gets Under

A dedicated piece with its own sealant runs along the gutter side, with its border set just past the drip metal. Using leftovers turned backward misplaces the tacky strip, and a hard blow can then unzip the lowest row.

A shingle comes with a marked area where the nails belong, since that is where the pieces overlap and double up. A slanting or deep-set head slices the mat, and the shingle around it can then rip loose in a storm.

Airflow Under the Deck – Keeping the Space Cool

Cooler outdoor currents should enter along the eaves and escape up top, and the openings at each end are kept in proportion. When the lower vents are painted shut or packed with insulation, the attic goes hungry, so air is pulled up through light fixtures and the hatch.

Good circulation carries heat off the sheathing, so the tabs keep their oils longer. At the colder end of our territory, a vented attic prevents house warmth from thawing the snowpack, so ice ridges rarely build along the gutters.

Fan Duct Runs: Routed Outdoors

Plenty of bathroom vents simply stop short in the insulation, so warm, humid breath settles on chilly boards. Wet nail tips and black staining on the decking are the marks, and rot sets in that the covering cannot hide.

With the sheathing exposed, the pipes from the fans are easy to trace, and every one can be taken through a dedicated roof jack. Any vent hose that has slipped off its collar is reattached, with insulated wrap added to keep water from collecting inside.

Where Siding Meets Shingles – New Pieces Every Time

Against a gable or dormer face, an L-shaped plate is tucked under every row, with the exterior finish lapping over the upright half. The previous flashing has rusted edges and holes from past nailing, so none of the old material is reused.

At the base of a sidewall, a small angled deflector steers water toward the eave, as a missing one lets rain pour in behind the trim. Numerous houses from past decades went without it, so decay appears just under the roofline.

Chimney Flashing: Tight Against the Brick

A masonry flue takes an apron across its downhill face and stepped pieces up both sides, with counterflashing let into the joints to cover them. A chimney much wider than a person needs a cricket at the rear, and that splits runoff to left and right.

A stack that went without a peaked diverter can get one while the old layers are off, because the sheathing near it is bare. Brick that flakes or mortar that crumbles up top is masonry work, as counterflashing let into weak material soon comes free.

Skylights – Removing the Ones Nobody Wants

The frame gets the matching package of pieces its manufacturer sells, so water moving past is shed from part to part. A skylight with fogged panes or rot around it is worth replacing during the job, as redoing it afterward disturbs brand-new tabs.

A light well the household would rather lose can be eliminated, with the gap framed in and decked. Streaks down the shaft on cold nights are often condensation, which is a question of room humidity rather than flashing.

Valleys: Metal or Shingle Down the Middle

The crease between adjoining planes takes the drainage of both, so it is reconstructed with the rest of the job. The low line receives a length of sticky membrane end to end, and on that goes an exposed liner or a shingled finish.

With an open design, a stripe of steel stays in view, but a closed-cut version lays tabs across from one slope and cuts the other slope's edge true. Picking between them comes down to the covering and the climate, and either one sheds water when it is done correctly.

Stacks, Vents and Mounts – Collars That Stand Up to Sun

Every drain riser takes a fresh flashing unit, and the louvers over the fans are swapped. Abandoned stacks, old antenna mounts and dish brackets come off, and the gaps they leave are sheathed over.

Caulk around a boot is only a backup, because the flange and the laps carry the runoff past. Lead or silicone pipe flashings outlast the standard neoprene kind in strong sun, and they match the lifespan of a brand-new roof.

Roofs Over Additions – Tied Into the Main Roof

Many homes include a back room or carport covered at barely any rise, but asphalt strips were commonly used there anyway. Lapped courses count on gravity to hurry rain along, so a gentle grade lets it linger and seep under the edges.

During a re-roof, the section gets a membrane made for it, such as modified bitumen, with its top margin slipped under the shingles higher up. Where the flat and pitched coverings meet, metal bridges the two, since runoff slows and turns where the roof flattens.

The Surface Material: Suited to the Building

The angle of each plane removes some candidates, because each system names a minimum slope. Architectural asphalt shingles suit the majority of homes, steel panels ride out strong gusts, and tile needs a structure built for its heft.

Color and style shape how the whole property looks, while a light finish absorbs less of the sun's heat. We say which we would use on your house and why, and the decision stays with you.

Specifications That Vary – Labels and Lab Tests

At the colder end of our territory, hail is what bruises coverings, so impact-rated shingles are often the pick. The highest grade means a sample survived steel balls dropped from set heights, which speaks to toughness and promises nothing.

At the coastal end of our territory, the pull of wind shapes the specification, so the product must carry a strong uplift rating. Every piece gets the extra nails the maker specifies, and corners and edges receive hand-applied adhesive.

Where the Planes Meet Up High: Plugged at the Ends

Specially made folding shingles cover the apex and the corners, since a stiff laminated tab snaps when bent over. Under a ridge exhaust, a strip of sheathing is removed, and the vent is fastened across the gap and capped.

End plugs are pressed into both ends of the run, which keeps blowing rain from getting in. The product sheet gives the width to follow, since an oversized cut lets weather through and an undersized one starves the attic.

Care for the Grounds – Where the Old Roof Lands

Plantings and outdoor seating close to the walls do better under tarps, with the air conditioner and any low glass guarded by plywood. A debris trailer by the eaves lets old material drop right into it, and boards under its wheels protect the drive.

Granules and scraps from the old roof collect in the gutters, which can block the downspouts. A single nail in the grass can find a tire or a bare foot, so the ground is worth going over afterward.

The Order of the Work – Sun and Sealant

Removal moves across the roof in stretches, so rain that arrives early finds little open decking. Bad spots get fixed, and the membrane and underlayment follow, with the rake metal and starter set once the sheets are down.

The shingles climb from the eave toward the peak, and the vent and caps come at the end. The factory adhesive lines set as the sun heats the new shingles, so the covering holds better after a few sunny days.

Staying Put While the Crew Works: Getting the Family Ready

The pounding overhead echoes through every room, and anything hung high on a wall can come down. The attic catches whatever sifts through the sheathing seams, so boxes up there should be wrapped.

Vehicles are better parked on the street than in the driveway, because a dumpster and material deliveries use that stretch. A skittish dog copes more easily with a sitter across town, and little ones stay indoors or well back from the roofline.

Building Permits: What to Expect

Most municipalities must sign off on a full re-roof, with an independent inspector reviewing it afterward. Pulling the permit is normally up to the roofer, as the firm doing the work is named on it.

Anyone who offers to skip the approval step wants nobody checking, so a second opinion is sensible. A closed record with the city answers a buyer's question about the roof, and it can smooth a sale when the time comes.

Service Life – Why Neighbors Differ

Architectural shingles are made to perform for decades, while metal and tile can carry on beyond that. Actual service life turns on the flashing work, along with the storms a home sees.

Houses side by side under the same shingle can give out far apart, since one breathes and the other bakes. An inspection each year after the storms turns up minor damage, so the covering has a better chance of lasting its full span.

When Replacement Is the Answer: From Gutter to Ridge

  • Shingles bent up at the edges – on every face, not just one.
  • The black mat showing through – plus a sandy layer in the gutters.
  • Small repairs that keep failing, one after another.
  • A dip in a slope – a sign the wood below has moved.
  • Pinpoints of light in the attic, noticed in the afternoon.
  • Shingles breaking at the nail line, so patching damages more than it mends.
  • Moss holding moisture against the mat, on a top layer that is already tired.
  • Two layers stacked up there – ruling out another overlay.

The Way APC Roofing Carries Out Roof Installation in Greater Orlando Metro Area: the Whole Way Through

Each slope gets walked, one at a time, followed by a look inside the attic. Everything we see is turned into a proposal you can read, naming every layer, the metal and the vents.

Photos capture the wood repairs and the details before shingles hide them, which shows what sits under the covering.

Roof Installation Around Greater Orlando Metro Area – Planned, Then Built

Dial 407-270-1129 to set up a visit to the house.

 

Eave Gutters: Checked and Noted

Every storm's worth of rain leaves the shingles and lands in the troughs, with the drip metal setting where it enters. Any length that sags, seeps or has pulled loose is recorded, since the overflow stains and rots the wood behind.

Removed troughs are put back with a gentle pitch toward the outlets, with new fasteners set in firm wood. At the colder end of our territory, ice in a clogged gutter builds up over the edge, and guards or wider leaders lower the risk.

Work Outside the Roof: Who Handles What

A bowed ridge board or broken rafter calls for a carpenter's fix, so the structure is sound before the covering. An underinsulated attic floor stays that way after a tear-off, which leaves rooms that were hard to heat just as hard.

Damaged wiring in the attic needs an electrician rather than a roofer, and we name the right trade when we find it. You know in advance what the replacement fixes, and what it leaves alone.

To schedule Roof Installation in Greater Orlando Metro Area, contact APC Roofing at 407-270-1129. We take measurements and set the work down on paper, and the roof goes on as agreed.