Thinking About Roof Replacement Close to Overland Park Kansas?
APC Roofing tears tired shingles off down to the deck and lays every layer again, from the underlayment to the caps.
Reach us at 913-398-5020 to arrange a visit to measure the roof.
Leaving the Old Covering On – and What We Do Instead
Rules in many areas allow one more layer of asphalt above the present one, which spares the crew the demolition. Going over the top conceals the deck and its flashing, and rot or corrosion carries on below.
Shingles laid onto shingles follow every curl underneath, and the extra thickness traps heat from the sun. A true tear-off removes the old layers right down to the deck, since fasteners need solid wood to grip.
Under the Old Covering – Rot and Open Gaps
When the stripping has ended, each plank and panel can be looked over. Wood turned soft around old leaks is swapped for new material, while sheathing that has worked free gets renailed.
Older homes often sit on board decking with open joints, so the openings are closed with an overlay of panels. Fasteners driven into punky wood do not hold, and the courses above it work free before their time.
The Sheet Under the Shingles: Why Felt Gave Way
A lightweight woven fabric is stretched over the field, which protects the sheathing if the top course is ever damaged. Old tar paper split easily and buckled after a rain, while the modern kind lies flat and holds together.
The upper edge of each run tucks under the next one up, and the nail pattern follows the manufacturer's instructions. What the covering rests on is worth asking about, because houses that look alike from the street can differ underneath.
The Self-Sealing Barrier – Full Cover or Strips
A rubber-and-asphalt layer sticks directly to the sheathing, and it flexes as the wood swells and shrinks. The tacky compound hugs each nail shank, which means water pushed up under the covering stays out of the rooms.
At the colder end of our territory, the protected zone is made much wider near the bottom, since snowmelt held back by ice creeps up under the laps. A sealed deck, with tape over each joint, is sometimes specified, so a torn-off section does not let rain into the rooms.
Drip Edge – Missing on Many Older Houses
A bent strip of aluminum or steel runs along the bottom and up the slanted borders of each plane, so the runoff falls away from the siding. At the eave, the metal is tucked beneath the underlayment, and at the rakes the arrangement flips.
Numerous houses were finished without any flashing at the border, and water has been soaking the trim behind the gutter for years. The new roof gets edge metal on every eave and rake, and damaged lumber beneath it is repaired.
Anchoring the Lowest Row – and the Fastener Line
The eave receives a manufactured piece whose adhesive sits right at the lip, and its outer border overhangs the drip metal slightly. Regular stock turned around carries its glue line at the upper end, so the bottom row is free to flap in a storm.
Every piece has a nail zone set out by its maker, since that is where the pieces overlap and double up. A head sunk too deep or at a slant cuts the mat, so the shingle has little left to resist wind.
Letting the Attic Breathe: What Trapped Heat Costs
Fresh outdoor currents belong in at the overhang and out along the top, with roughly equal open area below and above. Lower vents buried under insulation or paint starve the attic, which makes a roof fan suck air from the living space.
Proper ventilation cools the underside of the plywood, and the shingles on top age more slowly. At the colder end of our territory, an attic kept chilly leaves the snow frozen until the sun gets to it, so dams of ice are much less likely.
Where the Exhaust Ducts End: Fixed While the Wood Is Open
Plenty of bathroom vents simply stop short in the insulation, which puts steam against cold lumber. Dark mold on the wood and rust on the nails point to it, and the structure slowly decays from the underside.
With the old roof stripped, each duct is easy to get at, and a flashed cap can be installed for each. A flexible hose that has come apart is joined back together, while insulation around it stops water beading inside.
Where Siding Meets Shingles – and the Kickout at the Bottom
An angled plate goes in with every row that stops against the house, and trim or building wrap overlaps its upright leg. The previous flashing has rusted edges and holes from past nailing, so none of the old material is reused.
At the base of a sidewall, a small angled deflector steers water toward the eave, since otherwise the stream slips inside the cavity. Numerous houses from past decades went without it, so the boards near the roofline soften and swell.
Chimneys – Old Brick, New Metal
An apron lines the lower face of the flue and stepped pieces run up its sides, and counterflashing set into the joints laps down over them. A wide chimney calls for a cricket on the uphill end, and that splits runoff to left and right.
A stack that went without a peaked diverter can get one while the old layers are off, because nothing covers the wood in that area. Worn mortar joints above the metal belong to a masonry contractor, as counterflashing let into weak material soon comes free.
Skylight Units: What Changes With the Roof
A factory package of step and head pieces is made for every frame, and the parts overlap the adjoining courses like shingles. Any skylight near the end of its life is sensibly traded out with the rest, because reopening fresh work later doubles the disruption.
Owners who dislike a light well can have it taken away, and the gap is filled with rafters and plywood. Beads on the inner glass on a chilly night are usually vapor settling on the cold pane, and more flashing will not cure that.
The Inside Corners: Open or Closed-Cut
The fold where one plane meets another gathers what each sheds, and none of the previous materials are kept. Membrane that sticks to the wood runs from end to end, with a metal liner or shingle courses installed over it.
The open approach keeps a band of steel in plain view, while the closed-cut style carries tabs from one side across and cuts the opposite side straight. Picking between them comes down to the covering and the climate, and both drain well when built by the book.
Everything Through the Deck – Collars That Stand Up to Sun
Every plumbing riser gets a fresh flashing unit, and the louvers over the fans are swapped. Mounts and stacks that no longer serve, from dish brackets to disused pipes, are removed, and new decking fills each opening.
Any caulk used at a collar plays a minor part, and the overlapping shingles and the flange do the real work. Silicone and lead versions resist ultraviolet light better than ordinary neoprene, so they make sense on a new roof expected to serve many years.
Low-Slope Sections: A Different Material
Plenty of homes carry a sunroom, carport or rear room with an almost horizontal top, and it often got the same asphalt as the rest. A lapped covering needs water to leave in a hurry, but with such a slight tilt it stalls and backs up under each edge.
A replacement can switch that section to modified bitumen or a single-ply membrane, and it tucks under the shingled plane above. The seam between the two materials is flashed separately, since caulk alone fails there as the materials move.
Picking a Material – Weight, Wind and Looks
The grade of the roof takes some options off the list, because each system names a minimum slope. Architectural asphalt shingles suit the majority of homes, metal copes with strong wind, and tile needs a structure built for its heft.
Color and style shape how the whole property looks, while a pale finish holds less heat in the sun. We tell you what we would install and explain it, and it is your call.
Built for the Local Weather: Edges Sealed Down
At the colder end of our territory, big hail is the threat that matters, and shingles rated for impact resist cracking. A grade is assigned in a lab by dropping steel balls onto samples, and it is a measure of toughness, not a pledge.
At the coastal end of our territory, hurricane-force gusts drive the choices, and only shingles rated for strong uplift are used. Additional nails are driven into every piece, and the perimeter gets beads of roofing cement.
Hips and Ridges: Exhaust Along the Crest
The apex and the sloping outside corners get shingles made to fold, because everyday tabs split when doubled over. Where attic air leaves at the ridge, a slot is cut through the sheathing, and a vent unit sits over the gap under the caps.
The open ends at the gables are plugged, so wind-driven rain cannot blow in sideways. The gap in the deck matches the maker's stated width, because too wide invites leaks and too narrow chokes the airflow.
Beds, Lawn and Driveway: Nails in the Grass
Anything growing or sitting against the walls deserves a tarp, with the air conditioner and any low glass guarded by plywood. A trailer backed up under the eaves takes stripped shingles as they fall, and padding where it rests keeps the drive from cracking.
Granules and scraps from the old roof collect in the gutters, which can block the downspouts. A nail left in the grass can puncture a tire or a bare foot, and a slow pass over the ground pays off.
From Tear-Off to Caps – Sun and Sealant
Workers clear one area at a time, so rain that arrives early finds little open decking. Damaged plywood is swapped before the adhesive membrane and underlayment are rolled out, and the rake trim is added after that.
Courses run upward from the gutters, with the ridge caps and vents completing the job. The factory adhesive lines set as the sun heats the new shingles, and until that happens the nails do the holding.
What Happens Below: Getting the Family Ready
Nail guns and tear-off tools send vibration through the structure, and anything hung high on a wall can come down. The attic catches whatever sifts through the sheathing seams, so possessions kept there deserve a sheet over them.
Cars do better parked away from the driveway, since a dumpster and deliveries need the space. Nervous dogs and cats are calmer at a friend's home for the day, and little ones stay indoors or well back from the roofline.
The Permit and the Inspection: What to Expect
Cities and counties generally regulate a complete re-roof, and an official looks the roof over when the job is finished. The roofing contractor typically files for the permit, as the firm doing the work is named on it.
A bid that calls approval unnecessary is avoiding scrutiny, and that deserves weight when choosing. A closed record with the city answers a buyer's question about the roof, which helps once the property is listed.
Years of Use: Material and Everything Else
A quality architectural shingle is rated in decades, while metal and tile can carry on beyond that. Real-world results hinge on the edge and flashing details, plus the conditions outside.
Next-door houses with identical coverings often reach the end at very different ages, because one had its intake kept open while the other was starved of air. An inspection each year after the storms turns up minor damage, and quick repairs keep the covering in service longer.
Clues From the Yard and the Attic – Grit, Sagging and Daylight
- Shingles bent up at the edges – on the sides that face the sun.
- Dark bare spots on the mat, with grit piling up in the gutters.
- Repairs that do not hold, even after careful work.
- A dip in a slope, growing more obvious.
- Bright specks overhead in the attic, noticed in the afternoon.
- A covering too stiff to flex, a sign the asphalt has dried out.
- Lichen spread over a shaded face – on a roof near its end.
- A re-cover that is itself aging, meaning a strip to the deck next time.
How APC Roofing Approaches Roof Replacement in Overland Park Kansas: What to Expect
Our visit starts up top, slope by slope, followed by a look inside the attic. The results are set down in a written scope, and it spells out the layers, the metal and the vents.
Pictures are taken of the repaired wood and the flashing before they are buried, which keeps an image of work nobody will see again.
Roof Replacement Throughout Overland Park Kansas: Built on a Sound Deck
Dial 913-398-5020 and a roofer will come out to take measurements.
Gutter Runs – Rehung Where Needed
Every storm's worth of rain leaves the shingles and lands in the troughs, with the drip metal setting where it enters. Sagging runs, open seams and loose hangers all get recorded, because trapped water softens the wood behind.
A trough taken down during the tear-off goes back up pitched toward its downspout, and the screws are set into sound wood rather than old holes. At the colder end of our territory, a plugged gutter lets ice creep over the edge, so guards or larger leaders can help there.
Beyond the Roofing – Warmth and Wiring
A rafter that has cracked or a ridge that sags is a job for structural carpenters, and the repair is done prior to the shingles. Too little insulation above the ceilings remains too little, which leaves rooms that were hard to heat just as hard.
Any bad wiring found in the attic calls for an electrician, and it is flagged for the right trade. The owner hears beforehand what the new covering corrects, as well as what is beyond it.
To plan Roof Replacement in Overland Park Kansas, phone APC Roofing at 913-398-5020. We take measurements and set the work down on paper, and the reasons behind every option are set out.
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